York Association of the National Trust
YANT Holidays 2023
Holidays Organiser: holidays@yant.org.uk
Bath & Wells
16 – 20 July 2023
• Four nights’ dinner, bed & breakfast at the 4-star Francis Hotel, Bath, set in a
Grade I listed building in the heart of the city
• All visits as outlined in the itinerary
• Comfortable coaching throughout
• Services of Michael Gill as tour manager
• Porterage, gratuities and welcome drink
Sunday 16 July 2023
Photographs courtesy of Peter Drew
Day 2 – Monday 17 July 2023
Photographs courtesy of Peter Drew
Day 3 – Tuesday 18 July 2023
Photographs courtesy of Peter Drew
Day 4 – Wednesday 19 July 2023
Photographs courtesy of Peter Drew
BATH AND WELLS: A TOUR OF TWO CITIES
PLUS A FEW OTHER DELIGHTS
Churches, city walking, historic houses, and waterways
An early start from York gave us ample time to face the lengthy journey to Somerset at a leisurely pace, down the Roman Fosse Way, with several stops en route, including Cirencester and its splendid medieval church (4 stars*).
Bath, where we were based, is magnificent, but on this occasion carried a number of disappointments. The Abbey (high on my church crawler’s list, 4 stars*) was closed for a university graduation ceremony, the Pump Room could only be accessed if you used the café, and a muddled description by our tour company discouraged most of us from signing up for the paying tour of the Baths from which the town takes its name. We assumed this would be included in the tour of the town, but it was not. And last but not least, for me if no one else, an exhibition of Kaffe Fassett quilts was on in the Art Gallery, which doesn’t open on Mondays - our only free day. So we took ourselves on a boat ride on the Avon, and walked a lot, admiring the lovely Georgian architecture.
And so to Wells. Here in York we know a thing or two about ecclesiastical grandeur. But biggest is not always best, and top billing, by some at least*, goes to the tiny cathedral at Wells, consecrated on 1239.
I held my breath against more disappointments, but no, there it was, that incredible west front, still able to amaze eight hundred years after it was built. The inside is pretty good too. We had an excellent tour guide, lunch it the café, a visit to the Bishop’s Palace and an afternoon in the sunshine in his lovely Gardens. A perfect day. Especially as we (a gang of four) opted out of the hotel dinner and found a restaurant in town: I will say no more about the catering at the hotel, though we said quite a lot at the time.
Churches more or less exhausted, we devoted the remaining two days to houses, plus a lovely two hour glide along the Kennet and Avon canal. This being an NT trip, we saw three of the Trust’s houses, obviously carefully chosen to cover a wide range of styles and interests: Great Chalfield Manor, Dyrham Park and Newton Park, all well worth a visit should you find yourself in that part of the country. One last church remained: a stop at Bradford on Avon enabled us to see St Lawrence (*2 stars), one of only four remaining Saxon churches in England.
A word of thanks must go the team of our own Peter Drew, and Michael Gill from Brightwater Holidays, who kept us in line in the nicest possible way, and to our driver, the Flying Dutchman Erwin Falkenreck who performed motoring miracles on narrow country roads.
Our weary travellers returned to York late in the evening of the fifth day, and I will record just one other small pleasure from this trip: making our way home across town in the dusk, we saw two urban foxes strolling along outside the Minster, as if they owned the place.
Jean Richards Stewart
July 2023
* Simon Jenkins, chairman of the National Trust from 2008 to 2014 and author of several works on historic churches, notably “England’s Thousand Best Churches” from which the ‘star’ ratings are taken (maximum 5), “England’s Cathedrals”, which gives Wells five stars to York’s four, and “Europe’s Hundred Best Cathedrals” in which Wells in the only English cathedral to make it into the top 25.
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Holiday Itinerary: Bath & Wells
16th - 20th July 2023
from £1,075.00
Day 1 – Sunday 16 July 2023
We depart from York and head towards our hotel in Bath via the Fosse Way, stopping for lunch (not included) and visit at Bourton on the Water. We carry on via Cirencester to our hotel in Bath, set in a Grade I listed building in the heart of the city. A welcome drink followed by dinner is served.
Day 2 – Monday 17 July 2023
Today we have a walking tour of Bath, followed by free time to visit local venues in more depth. This elegant city was named after the Roman-built baths and is packed with contemporary culture, rich traditions and lovely green spaces. The rejuvenating waters of the city are still a big draw and the Thermae Bath Spa houses the only natural thermal hot springs in Britain in which you can bathe - if you wish to visit booking is required in advance. Hot springs aside, the city is overflowing with eateries, quaint shops, museums and galleries. This afternoon you may wish to take a leisurely cruise along the river Avon to the village of Bathampton. Glide under historic Pulteney Bridge and into the Avon Valley where there is a chance to spot some local wildlife including swans, herons, kingfishers and, if you are lucky, otters.
Day 3 – Tuesday 18 July 2023
After breakfast, we depart on a scenic drive through one of Britain’s most impressive natural landmarks – Cheddar Gorge. The ravine itself is some 400 feet deep and runs three miles through the Mendip Hills, and its weathered crags and peaks are one of the most breath-taking natural sights. Formed around one million years ago when water from melting glaciers formed a river carving its way through the limestone rock creating this spectacular ravine. We will also enjoy some free time in the village of Cheddar sitting at the top of the gorge.
We continue to Wells, England’s smallest city, where we have a guided tour of Wells Cathedral, which has been inspiring visitors and pilgrims for nearly 850 years. The 13th-century West Front has one of the most impressive collections of medieval sculpture in the western world. After an opportunity for lunch (not included) in the Cathedral Café, we move on to the nearby Bishop’s Palace, a stunning mediaeval palace which has been home to the Bishops of Bath and Wells for 800 years. There are 14 acres of gardens to explore, including the beautiful well pools from which the city takes its name.
Our final visit takes us to Glastonbury, with free time to explore this historic town with its medieval abbey and other attractions. We return to the hotel for dinner.
Day 4 – Wednesday 19 July 2023
This morning we depart for Bradford on Avon, where we enjoy a trip on the Kennet and Avon Canal, aboard a privately chartered canal boat. Our leisurely cruise takes us through the Bradford Lock and over the Grade 2-listed Avoncliff Aqueduct. The tree-lined canal is home to a host of wildlife including kingfishers, herons, ducks, swans and moorhens. Returning to Bradford on Avon there will be time to explore this historic little market town.
We continue with visits to two National Trust properties, beginning with nearby Westwood Manor. This beautiful small manor house, built over three centuries, has late Gothic and Jacobean windows, decorative plasterwork and two important keyboard instruments. There is some fine period furniture, seventeenth and eighteenth century tapestries and a modern topiary garden.
We conclude today at Great Chalfield Manor, a charming medieval manor set in peaceful countryside. Cross the upper moat, passing barns, gatehouse and delightful parish church to enjoy fine oriel windows and the soldiers, griffins and monkey adorning the rooftops. Romantic gardens offer terraces, topiary houses, gazebo, lily pond, roses and views across the spring-fed fishpond. We
return to the hotel for dinner.
Day 5 – Thursday 20 July 2023
After breakfast we travel to nearby Dyrham Park, created in the 17th century by William Blathwayt. It is an early example of how a fortune made from empire was invested in a landed estate, transforming Dyrham into one of the most notable stately homes of its age, an impressive baroque mansion house with a collection of fine art and Dutch Delftware.
Our final visit is to Newham Park, which stands proud on top of the Cotswold escarpment, looking down into the Ozleworth valley and to the Mendips beyond. The 'New Worke' was built in 1550 by Nicholas Poyntz, previously an influential English courtier to Henry VIII. The house, garden and estate would grow and develop over 350 years, followed by a short but grave period of decline, to then be lovingly restored by a Texan architect in the 1970s and 80s. The architecture of Newark House reveals its intriguing history, with a quirky collection of furnishings and impressive views.
Later we return to York, stopping en route for refreshments, with arrival due in the early evening.